Here’s what that looks like for me. Basically a controller_fan configured to kick off with the steppers.

#Case fan for cooling when heating bed [controller_fan controller_fan] pin: YOUR_FAN_PIN_HERE heater: heater_bed stepper: stepper_x,stepper_y,stepper_z heater_temp: 40.0 fan_speed: 0.8 shutdown_speed: 1.0 kick_start_time: 0.5

Is it running Klipper or something else?

In Klipper I have my controller board fan set to speed up only when there’s any active heaters or stepper drivers?

E.g. fires up only when moving/heating or printing but not when idle. Even then it’s set to a reasonable 80% threshold.

I feel you on getting these things settled. My Frankender is pretty reliable and making sure the foundational stuff is good is key.

Here’s a comment I made here about a year back breaking down how to square, align and level these things

https://lemmy.world/comment/7904011

The context is Klipper which I’m running but the physical stuff applies across the board

May be a good time to see if there bits of filament in the extruder gears and if they’re ok. And, if they are, to clean the nozzle either by using filament or a cold pull.

And there’s the issue with embedded security stuff.

Because they’re really good out of the box printers and prior to this for somebody that wanted something that “just works” it would be Prusa or Bambu I’d recommend.

I love tinkering and tweaking and I’m building a Voron but it’s not hard to understand how overwhelming choices can be and it’s understandable that people would choose to lock into an ecosystem specifically because it lets them just print.

I would never buy a Bambu and wouldn’t recommend it for anybody building a company with essential components having them in the pipeline but then again most people aren’t that aware and their research, understandably, led them to buying one.

I agree with OP, this is an opportunity to be empathic and to help them. And they’re learning the hard way a lesson they’ll take forward. I’d prefer that lesson to be “more careful” and not “these people are snobs”

There’s also the retraction/wipe of filament. So if you can’t do it inside the print then the tower is used to give that surface to wipe off against.

Worst case then would be boogers/wisps

If it’s only overhangs then you may want to look at increasing the time between layers or increasing the part fan speed on overhangs.

This way there’s time for the layer before to solidify enough before adding more heat and melted plastic above it.

May not be it but it does have a kind of “overheated” look to it.

No need to feel like an idiot, I’ve done it too. Even looked up how to do some obscure thing only to find a link I’ve read before and comes out I have a bookmark for it from a year or so ago.

As for switching settings across objects I agree. I use these things when dialing in one setting across a range such as flow rate. Never for an entire print, though, since a failed print component is going to be dragged across others, etc.

Or the change in temp, flow, retraction, etc may cause strings, or blobs, etc. to affect the others when it’s printing the layers. Unless you’re doing one object at a time which presumes they’re small enough, etc. And even then it failing could mean what remains of the entire object may be dragged across hitting others. It’s just not worth the hassle.

It does show them thinking about processes which is a good mindset to have though.

Experience is a good teacher in this hobby.

Not per item “Profiles” but a lot of slicers let you do overrides.

For example you can override with per object settings in OrcaSlicer (and I presume Bambu). In Cura you can add settings that even apply to a box region (such as increasing infill in a certain weak part of a print or using adaptive layer height just as the top of some Conical shape)

Start with PLA since PETG can be finicky with moisture.

Garages are nice but try to keep drafts to a minimum. PLA is more forgiving there too.

Have fun tinkering and figuring it out. There’s just some skills you’ll acquire as you go. Slicer experience giving you an understanding of orientation for strength and/or to minimize the need for supports.

PLA is also cheap enough to just figure it out. You’ll have bad prints, regardless but you’ll also make some cool stuff too.

PETG has to be dry. I keep mine drying in my filament dryer when I’m printing it and then take it out and keep it sealed with dessicant when I’m not.

Stuff loved to absorb moisture like crazy and is super finicky when it has any moisture at all.

*Sign manOrWoman = null;

Fourth rule… painters tape as bed surface will save your PEI sheets and holds PETG really well.

Or G10/Garolite

No experience with these but I have seen some.

Basically you have 2 extruders and push the filament based on what’s needed.

You do need to purge the melt zone and I these don’t work well with different materials (PLA in one, ABS the other) because of PLA being too hot at ABS melt temps, etc.

As for these knockoffs if it’s cheap enough maybe but I can’t imagine the heat break being too good and it seems prone to jams.

Possibly to deal with the ozone things like this can produce.

Exactly. Small (very small) adjustments.

Doesn’t Bambu Studio have some tuning menus? It may cover this.

I don’t have a Bambu but what they also need to look at is retraction settings after purging the extra filament.

Seems like it needs to retract a little more to lower the “pressure” of the melted filament in the nozzle.

Best analogy is that this is like a giant glue gun. Squeeze really hard and fast and the glue isn’t going to stop when you let up in the trigger. Except, with a printer, you can have the extruder “retract” a little which does introduce a vacuum effect and slow/stop the oozing.

Note: make small adjustments with a direct drive (which most of these printers are using these days) so you don’t pull molten plastic into the heatbreak and have to deal with clogs. However, if it’s oozing out you’re probably not even close to that being an issue.

I use Klipper and OrcaSlicer but when I get a new type of Filament (ABS, PLA, TPU) I tune it including retractions. This way it does cleaner lines and is less likely to leave blogs, stringing. And tuning filament retractions here (or something specific to purges) should fix the issue.

It’s a foil in Majora’s Mask but, after a little bit, a kind of ally in this one.

You find yourself waiting for it, as it enables you to move on to the next jaunt you’re going to make.

The entire game is one giant puzzle rather than MM where it’s alot of smaller ones that the mechanic gets in the way of.

I went and edited more into the answer. Trying to capture the feeling about it so that they aren’t afraid of being annoyed. Hopefully I handled it gingerly enough.